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Comment by Pieter Segeren on June 14, 2016 at 4:23pm

Really cool results Ludo, great job!

Comment by ludo on June 14, 2016 at 3:21pm

Yes you are right,

for the porcelain we do slipcasting. We fill the mold with "barbotine"  then wait about 3 to 4 minutes, then empty the mold. Let dry some more times (in minutes) and you can get your piece out of the mold if you reverse it, befor the porcelain shrink. The porcelain shrink approx 14% between the mold and the final piece after it have been baked.

You have your piece with only a 2 to 4 mm wall thickness It'sdepend of the time you let the "barbotine" dry in the mold before you empty it. Here the thickness is about 2 mm.

Yes the piece is bake in a kiln to approx 1000 °C .

With a thickness from 2 to 4 mm, you can play with the translucidity of the porcelaine to let the light come through like in my voronoî project in 2014 : http://www.grasshopper3d.com/video/vorono

Comment by Ethan Gross on June 14, 2016 at 2:31pm

Sorry, I guess I was confused. I googled "barbotine", so are you using "couler en barbotine" (slipcasting), where the plaster mold soaks up the water and the piece is then fired in a kiln, for the porcelain?

Comment by ludo on June 14, 2016 at 2:02pm

Hi ethan,

The video could be confusing, my english too. :-)

I make 2 type of pieces, one with cement+ platicizer (sika) in order to catch the detail without put too much water in the cement. The platicizer change slightu the colour of the cement. The mold is broken each time.

THe others pieces are made in porcelain, with enamel only on the top flat surface. You can use the mold approx 20 times because after the plaster is saturated with "salt" from the barbotine.

Ludo

Comment by Ethan Gross on June 14, 2016 at 1:14pm

Hi Ludo,

A very thorough explanation of the process! What exactly is "porcelain cement"? Is it concrete that cures white instead of gray, or is it something beyond that?